Mouthpiece truing tool

[fsgazda]

So, I have a truing tool (DEG, I think, might be Kelly). It works fine on trumpet, horn, small shank trombone, and some large shank and tuba mouthpieces, but it will does not fit properly on many tuba mouthpieces and some large shank (schilke especially).

Is there another mouthpiece tool out there I can get? I use a trumpet mouthpiece to straighten the shanks that the tool won't, but I'd rather use the right tool for the job.

[przxqgl]

the N15 Mouthpiece Shank Arbor - http://www.ferreestools.com/index_files/Page18.htm" target="_blank - works for all brass instruments.

[1895King]

I use a pair of needle-nose pliers.

[Dan Schultz]

Maybe one of the mouthpiece manufacturers can chime in on this....

The thickness of the wall at the very end of the shank appears to be about the same for all mouthpieces. Since the aperture at the base of the cup changes, it seems reasonable that the angle has to fluctuate a bit, too.

I've never actually measured the inside and would be interested to know if there is such a thing as a 'standard' angle.

[MikeW]

The thickness of the wall at the very end of the shank appears to be about the same for all mouthpieces. Since the aperture at the base of the cup changes, it seems reasonable that the angle has to fluctuate a bit, too.

Is there necessarily an "angle" ? If the mouthpiece has a concave backbore, the inner surface will have double curvature, and no conical truing tool will ever fit it exactly.

[MartyNeilan]

I have made it a point not to drop a mouthpiece in years, but around junior high-high school I remember once borrowing a small shank tenor trombone mouthpiece to round out the end. The look on the trombonist's face was priceless when I handed it back.

[JCalkin]

For me, I've noticed that the combination of a truing tool and a small metal hammer yields the best results. When part of a shank is dented inwards there is usually a part of it that is forced outwards as well. I insert the truing tool to bring the dented-in parts back out, and GENTLY use the small hammer (with the truing tool still in the shank) to knock the pushed-out parts back in.

I practiced this on junker mouthpieces first, of course.

[przxqgl]

a small metal hammer

actually, a small leather mallet works a lot better. a metal hammer tends to put tool marks on the surface.

[Dan Schultz]

The thickness of the wall at the very end of the shank appears to be about the same for all mouthpieces. Since the aperture at the base of the cup changes, it seems reasonable that the angle has to fluctuate a bit, too.

Is there necessarily an "angle" ? If the mouthpiece has a concave backbore, the inner surface will have double curvature, and no conical truing tool will ever fit it exactly.

Exactly my point. This 'truing tool' is capable of doing nothing except working on the very tip of the MP shank to make it round again. The taper simply allows it to be used on about any mouthpiece.

[fsgazda]

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

Just to clarify, I use the tool for a variety of students and in brass methods class to show them how to do it. I haven't put a dent in one of my shanks since...well, ever.

I also use the truing tool with a rawhide mallet. It works well, but some mouthpieces the tool actually will not go in far enough to be flush up against the shank (the tip of the tool stops in the throat of the mouthpiece before the tool comes flush). I need a tool that is wider or less tapered. I will explore some of these suggestions (and a couple I got via PM).

Thanks!

[Dutchtown Sousa]

I used a large size metal pin punch to true my mouthpiece. Worked pretty well and you can get those for much less than a mouthpiece truing tool. Its basically the same thing without a handle