Bach tuba parts

[Tubajug]

Another question (or maybe two or three) regards my "new" Bach tuba.

Are there any parts available other than buying another horn and harvesting it? Because honestly, finding one cheap enough to make it worth it to me (I got my horn pretty cheap) means it will probably be in pretty rough shape anyway. I'm mostly looking for a lead pipe (it's dented, bent, and held on by zip ties and what looks to be like silicone sealant) and (as I've mentioned before) a bell. The valve caps also don't match, so I might replace those.

A question about the bell though, would it be possible to replace only the flare and not the whole stack? The only major damage is on the flare, so I'm imagining something where the flare is cut off and replaced with another and then reinforced with a band of some kind (like I've seen on a Conn 12J my school owns) at the join.

Because honestly, the valves are great (although I'm replacing the guides with plastic ones because they also don't match), I've got most of the dents out myself, and I'm just needing/wanting to replace the previously mentioned parts at some point.

[Lee Stofer]

Jordan,
The Bach 869 tuba you own is a model discontinued in 1997, based on the Olds O-99, discontinued in about 1978.

In the Allied supply Catalog, I see the mouthpipe listed as a S900, the receiver as an A221, and the top cap as part No. S914.

They do not list a bell as being available, but a bell from an Olds O-99, a Reynolds 3/4 BBb, a Conn 11/12/14/15J tuba should fit, which should give you a lot better chance of finding one. If you like the horn well enough to afford this, a new Kanstul 902 series 3/4 BBb tuba bell should fit it, too.

If you have an accomplished repairman locally, I'd suggest visiting him/her and showing them this tuba. I have an idea that the leadpipe can be repaired, as well as the damage in the bell flare, for a lot less than just buying new/used parts. And, it seems that you have an interest in instrument repair. Watch this person, and learn some things. You could find yourself working there eventually.

[Tubajug]

Thanks for the help Mr. Stofer. I am interesting in learning repairs myself. I feel competent enough to put on a lead pipe myself if I can only find one. I've been keeping an eye out for bells. This bell has probably 20+ tears in it from previous creases and repairs. I could drop some solder in each of them if I wanted to, but I would like to replace it at some point.

Thanks again for posting ($900 is a bit more than I've got in the horn right now for a new leadpipe.... )

[Tom]

Thanks again for posting ($900 is a bit more than I've got in the horn right now for a new leadpipe.... )

S900 is the part number for the leadpipe in the catalog...not $900 price...

Easy mistake to make; I read $900 at first glance, too.

Yikes!

[Tubajug]

Thanks again for posting ($900 is a bit more than I've got in the horn right now for a new leadpipe.... )

S900 is the part number for the leadpipe in the catalog...not $900 price...

Easy mistake to make; I read $900 at first glance, too.

Yikes!

Haha, wow, that makes me feel better! I thought that was a bit steep...That must be some leadpipe.... Thanks for clarifying.

[Lee Stofer]

Right, a leadpipe is nowhere near costing $900.00, at least not yet. That would be the ballpark cost of a new Kanstul bell for the tuba.

[Tubajug]

Thanks for all the replies everyone, they are most appreciated.

If I had my tuba at home (it's in my office at school), I would just measure, but does anyone know offhand if this bell would work as a replacement? Thanks!

[Bob Kolada]

Could you use a shorter bell also, life from an Eb? Main slide would have to come out a bit...

[Dan Schultz]

Thanks for all the replies everyone, they are most appreciated.

If I had my tuba at home (it's in my office at school), I would just measure, but does anyone know offhand if this bell would work as a replacement? Thanks!

Maybe.

Here are some measurements I've taken from some of the popular Conn/Bach/Olds/Reynolds tubas:
Conn 4J, 10J, 12J, & 15J bells (also Olds 0-99?)
12 1/2" circumference - 3.98" (101mm) small end
25 1/2" (647.7mm) overall length
17 1/2" (445.5mm) flare

Conn ?? bells
12 1/2" circumference small end
28" overall length
16" flare

Note that on the two bells above... the one with the larger flare is shorter. The pitch result of the two is probably equal. A bell with a larger flare is acoustically longer. Don't ask me to explain that but I can draw you a picture!

[Tubajug]

After doing a little math, it looks like that Conn bell on ebay probably won't work. The seller gives the diameter of the small end as being 4 3/4", which, if you multiply by pi to get the circumference makes it almost 15" around, quite a bit more than the 12.5" on my Bach. Oh well. It was worth a shot. Even if he is measuring the ferrule (which I imagine he is) the diameter of the small end of bell won't be very much smaller.

[Tubajug]

I'll just add to this thread instead of starting a new one.

I got some nylon guides from my repair guy and I'm wanting to install them myself if possible. How do the old guides come out? I'll see about getting some pictures up, but they are the little tabs on the side and I can't seem to get them out. Are they generally soldered in? Screw in? Each is different unfortunately, which leads me to believe they might all be installed differently.

Again, thanks for all the tips and help!

[Dan Schultz]

I'll just add to this thread instead of starting a new one.

I got some nylon guides from my repair guy and I'm wanting to install them myself if possible. How do the old guides come out? I'll see about getting some pictures up, but they are the little tabs on the side and I can't seem to get them out. Are they generally soldered in? Screw in? Each is different unfortunately, which leads me to believe they might all be installed differently.

Again, thanks for all the tips and help!

Originally... the guides would have been screwed into the piston. However... over the years they could be soldered solid or glued in. Hard tellin' what some parent or tech might have done.

Getting guides out can be tricky if they don't simply unscrew. (Left to loosen them.) If the part on the outside breaks off... about the only choice you have is to drill them out. I always center-punch them and then use a left-hand drill of a size slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the screw. The tap-drill size for a #3-48 screw thread is #47 so use a left-hand drill (turning backwards, of course!) a bit smaller than that. You use a left-hand drill in case the screw gets free and hangs on the drill. It will back out instead of running inside the piston where it will rattle forever!

In rare instances, there is enough of the screw left to use a Dremel and a fine disc to create a slot in the remaining part of the screw. Then use a small screwdriver. Of course... this won't help if the screw is bonded to the piston.

It's a little risky to learn how to do this on a piston you care about. I strongly suggest that you take it to an experienced repairman and ask if you can watch.

[Tubajug]

It's a little risky to learn how to do this on a piston you care about. I strongly suggest that you take it to an experienced repairman and ask if you can watch.

If they don't simply unscrew, this will likely be my next course of action. Thanks for all the help.