How much generally for a uniball conversion and other stuff

[tubashaman2]

.

[Allen]

Regarding lubricating ball joints: Hetman makes "ball joint oil." It's very thick, and is exactly right for metal mini-balls. It comes with a needle applicator. Probably would work well for the plastic ones.

I wouldn't use a very light oil such as valve oil on ball joints.

Allen

[The Big Ben]

Todd and others,

Don't pre-judge Houghton till you get a tuba cleaned/fixed/whatever by him...

Glad you have found a horn jockey you like.

The point being made was trying to get an estimate over the phone. Some estimates- like the price of a chem clean - might be possible over the phone. Estimates for conversion work need the horn on the bench and examined before the price can at all be close to reality.

[Kevin Hendrick]

hmmm.....I don't remember starting this thread. What was the original question?

It's a puzzle, isn't it? The first post makes no sense on its own -- it seems to refer to an earlier post, which apparently got lost somewhere along the way (there seem to be other posts missing, too).

[Todd S. Malicoate]

Todd and others,

Don't pre-judge Houghton till you get a tuba cleaned/fixed/whatever by him...

What the heck are you talking about, James?

I never said anything about Mr. Houghton or his abilities. I questioned you on asking the forum how much he might charge and suggested you call him for an estimate, not ask strangers on a bulletin board. I'd love for you to explain to me how that is "pre-judging" someone I don't even know.

Of course, that was nearly a year ago...before you threw your fit and "quit" TubeNet. How'd that work out, again?

[jtuba]

I just got my parts from RC Rock Crawling and I can say that the rods are nice and beefy and would work. The rod ends have too much play in them and make too much noise when hooked up. Back they go.

[sailn2ba]

Uhm, Rick. . .What's the Hetman equivalent to 3in1?

[Rick Denney]

Uhm, Rick. . .What's the Hetman equivalent to 3in1?

#14 Bearing and Linkage Oil.

Rick "who likes the applicator" Denney

[muttenstrudel]

I still have to take a picture of my too-baa with the new linkages. Although I post one of my F-Tuba with the old „S-Type“-linkages. Now I've got it all done by a very, very nice guy who whappens to have learned his profession and worked there for 20 years at Lätzsch in Bremen but then decided to open up his own repair shop. And that's pretty close to me.
Excellent work for a good price: Conversion of 6 valves for 280€.

[Cameron Gates]

I just got my parts from RC Rock Crawling and I can say that the rods are nice and beefy and would work. The rod ends have too much play in them and make too much noise when hooked up. Back they go.

Bumped from the grave...

I just bought four of the steel 4-40 ones to see how well they would work out on my Eb and my CC. THEN I see your followup. DOH! Well, it has been some time and maybe they have improved. If not, lesson learned on my part...

Please update when the rod ends arrive.

[Dan Schultz]

Any all-metal links (whether antique-style S-arms and tapered screws, or European-made sealed bearings) will eventually (and it often only takes two or three years) wear enough to make clicking noises.

I've had "cheap" plastic-against-metal links on my one rotary tuba for well over two decades (possibly 25 years). I've never changed out any of them. They make no noise. They are very fast and very smooth.

+1.

The Dubro links may look 'cheesy' but they've never failed to perform. I use item 'C' and 'D' from this page for most conversions: http://hobby.dubro.com/resources/ecatal ... /00075.htm

Dubro also makes a real nifty 'turnbuckle' that has a left-hand thread on one end and a right-hand thread on the other end to make for super-easy adjustment of paddle heights.

These links make no noise whatsoever. In fact... rotor noise is often from too much end play in the rotor itself. All too often, the 'S' links get the blame for noise and they usually are not the problem except in cases where they link pins are severely damaged.

On any link (ESPECIALLY METAL ONES)... oil is your friend. Oil provides the cushion to keep metal parts from banging together.

Plastic is good. Metal is baaaad!