Willson 3100 1st slide issues?

[Jess Haney]

So I have had a Willson 3100 FA5 for years and love the horn for 95% of what is capable of. But I have always noticed the the 1st valve has been the trickiest to keep in tune. Here is the scenario:

Ab below the staff/ sharp/ slide out 1" approx
Eb below/ very sharp/ out 1.75" or more.
Ab in the staff/ sharp/ out .75"
C in staff/ flat/ all the way in to even get close
Eb in staff/ flat/ 3/4"

The horn is not particulairly MP sensative and it seems with a wide range of cup styles and settings it has held close to these spots. I am wondering if any other 3100 or 3050 owners have encountered these similar issues with 1st combonations. I know about others having the D below the staff sharp as 1+2, so 3rd is the norm for that note. If you have dealt with these issues and have some insight please let me know.

[TUbajohn20J]

That's strange alot of your first valve combinations are flat. Most of mine are real sharp especially Eb in the staff and C in the staff. And open D in the staff. Have to use 3rd for that as well as low D. But Eb and C in the staff I have to pull all the way out to get them even close to fairly in tune. My Ab in the staff and Eb under the staff are sharp like yours. All tubas are different though. Still weird..

[jon112780]

Get the slide cut, it should be about $50.

[jonesbrass]

I would be very hesitant to cut on your 3100 without making contact with Willy Kurath on your issue first. It may be something else.

[jon112780]

I'll admit, it could be something else like valves that aren't correctly aligned, air leaking out somewhere, or something partially blocking the tubing 'anywhere', etc...

...but the C in the staff is usually at least a hair flat on most BBb instruments I've played/owned (C above the staff for the 2 euphoniums I used to have); and a simple 1st slide cut would seem to be the best solution, I did that on my current horn. Now I push in all the way for that note (it's the F in the staff on my 983 Eb), and pull what I need to for what ever needs pulling.

By the looks of the slide on the 3100 BBb, there's plenty of room to cut an inch and still have at least 5 inches of pull when you need it. I do quite a bit of 1st slide movement on my horn, but I've never played a horn that played PERFECTLY in tune without moving a slide or two. I'm sure they exist, but I've never found one.

Playing reasonably in tune without slide movement is possible, but I've heard many tubists that never moved slides that should have. It's nice you are aware of your horn's intonation and check yourself with a tuner. I should do it my self more.

[Jess Haney]

I'll admit, it could be something else like valves that aren't correctly aligned, air leaking out somewhere, or something partially blocking the tubing 'anywhere', etc...

...but the C in the staff is usually at least a hair flat on most BBb instruments I've played/owned (C above the staff for the 2 euphoniums I used to have); and a simple 1st slide cut would seem to be the best solution, I did that on my current horn. Now I push in all the way for that note (it's the F in the staff on my 983 Eb), and pull what I need to for what ever needs pulling.

By the looks of the slide on the 3100 BBb, there's plenty of room to cut an inch and still have at least 5 inches of pull when you need it. I do quite a bit of 1st slide movement on my horn, but I've never played a horn that played PERFECTLY in tune without moving a slide or two. I'm sure they exist, but I've never found one.

Playing reasonably in tune without slide movement is possible, but I've heard many tubists that never moved slides that should have. It's nice you are aware of your horn's intonation and check yourself with a tuner. I should do it my self more.

I get what you mean. the most frustrating note is actually not the C in the staff. the Eb below is the one that is the wild child. Especially if the other BBb players in the brass band are flat on their 1sts then I am really in trouble. I think I might contact Willi and see what he thinks.

[pgym]

I'll admit, it could be something else like valves that aren't correctly aligned, air leaking out somewhere, or something partially blocking the tubing 'anywhere', etc...

which is why cutting should be the LAST attempted remedy, not the first.