valve oil issues.

[theatomizer13]

I have a besson prestige tuba and the valves are a little worn on it. My teacher lives by hetmans, I used it for a while but my valves would always gum up. Ex. I needed to do a major clean at least monthly to get the green gunk out. I switched to Dennis wick, and it does basically the same thing. Also I need to oil my valves daily it seems like or at least pull it part way out spin it around and put it back in to re distribute the oil (yes I use it generously also.

So should I switch to something else? Or wipe my valves off every other day and clean monthly? I play 3+ hours a day and I am really tired of always having valve problems.

[Dan Schultz]

I don't 'scrimp' on the oil. Petroleum based oils will keep your valves free of 'gunk'. I've had plenty of problems with synthetics. Don't fall for the "you'll use less" sales pitch.

[Teubonium]

I had the same green slime problems with Hetman's.

I now use Blue Juice on my piston horns and am quite happy with it.

[dwerden]

As you've heard above, synthetics don't work for everyone. I assume it has something to do with body chemistry; it doesn't work for me but does for some others. I like Blue Juice myself. Very good lubricating qualities. I also use it liberally. If you get your horn cleaned out well, you might even consider dripping the petroleum oil down the leadpipe and blowing it though (as you wiggle the valves). That helps keep the bore clean. (It's not something you can do with synthetics.)

[Dan Schultz]

One more vote for Blue Juice.
I also had the Hetman's gunk, which went away when i switched to Blue Juice.

Some people also like the Yamaha synthetic.

I may try the pure lamp oil thing. I think you're supposed to mix it with STP or something...right, Dan?

Jim

Lamp oil will mix with practically any lubricant. I usually put STP that I strip off a small screwdriver blade into about two ounces of lamp oil. Sometimes I just use regular motor oil. ... in either case, I just put in what I need to give the lamp oil the desired body and 'staying power'. You'll know pretty quickly when you put of either in the lamp oil.

[MikeW]

This topic comes up fairly regularly. The conventional wisdom seems to be:

1. Don't use vegetable oils. They polymerise in the presence of oxygen, and get gummy. In long term storage, they may dry (like the oil in oil-based paints) and jam your slides.

2. Don't use animal lubricants. Some of them rot and stink, and others may set like glue in storage (at this point, someone usually praises the virtues of rancid bear grease, but this is Tube Net)

3. Stick with hydro-carbons (petroleum based), they don't dry/set, and they discourage growth of mould and fungi.

The lubricant most often recommended is smokeless lamp oil. Some people say you should add something to slow the oil down a tad so it won't drain off your valves so quickly, such as medicinal-grade mineral oil (the light type sold as as a skin rub, not the heavy type sold as a laxative). A drop or two of mineral oil in an ounce or so of lamp oil is usually about right, but don't overdo it or you will slow down the valves as well. I have followed this advice, and find that my valves stay clean, and I only need to oil up maybe every other day or so, as compared with two or three times an evening with "brand X" (in a rectangular bottle).

You can scent it with the oil-soluble products sold for scenting candles (food flavorings are mostly water based, and tend not to mix)

You can color it with the oil-soluble colors sold to color white chocolate for decorating easter eggs, but make sure you get washable colors, this stuff is going to drip on your clothes. (Food colorings these days seem to be mostly water based, and don't mix).

[hup_d_dup]

I used Hetman a long time on my trumpets, cornets, etc., never had a problem, but when I switched to tuba I got the green slime right away. I think there is a lot of variability between instruments, and body chemistry too. Any recommendation for valve oil should be accompanied by the phrase "this might work for you."

Hup

[bort]

What are you using to clean the valves? If you're just wiping them down, that probably isn't enough, you really need to degrease them. Same for the valve casings, you need to get it clean first, before starting over. Get a valve casing brush, and gently clean it out and degrease it. Then use ONLY the Hetmans, with nothing else.

If you've done all of those things, then like other people say, try a different product. Long ago, I used BiNak495, and never had any trouble, no matter what the horn.

[theatomizer13]

I bathe my tuba(s) Monthly. I like clean tubas, but mainly they get gunked up really bad in that time period. I do use brushes and scrub the whole action and tuning slide and lead pipe.

Thanks for the info on the Blue juice i will definantly take that into consideration.

As for the "home brew" if you could give me a bit more information on that it would be great, it looks really interesting. -thanks tinker & mike

as for the BiNak495 I looked into it and does anyone else support that? I have never heard of it before, but it looks like a packaged mineral oil blend, is that right?

Bloke- Did you mean to just keep the tuba clean?

Thanks all for the input

[dwerden]

as for the BiNak495 I looked into it and does anyone else support that?

Not me, but I know it works well for some folks. My problem was due to moisture, as far as I can tell. When playing in cool temps with high humidity, for example, a lot of water condenses inside the horn. BiNak really seemed to hate that! It would get thick and kind of "white-looking." I don't recall having any trouble in warm, dry weather.

[ScottM]

I prefer the Blue Juice as it seems to work the best with my PT20.
ScottM