My next project!

[Tubajug]

Here is (in my opinion) a nice, flattering shot of my project. I got the bow and bell soldered on over the weekend. The leadpipe is currently "floating" off the bell. I need to make a brace to attach the receiver to the side of the bell (I got it started but didn't finish before bedtime Saturday night). Anyone have a small brace that I might purchase to put under the leadpipe on the front of the bell for a little more support/stability?



The more I play this, the more I like it! I still need to switch out the ferrules for the extended ones I have so that it plays in tune, but I really like the sound I get with this thing! I can see why Sam Gnagey uses this combo on his creations.

Let me know if you've got a brace or two I could buy from you. Thanks!

[EdFirth]

Jordan, There's an alternative to having the slide out so far. When the first run of the newer 2341's came out they played sharp.They had basically done what you are doing,a shorterbell on an old style King. I got one for my son and the main tuning had been lengthened. Matt@ Dillon's sent me two longer ferruls to replace the first and second ferruls after the dog's leg. These came on my horn(Dec. 2001) and it's right where it needs to be pitchwise. So Matt could probably hook you up if you wanted to go in that direction. I haven't seen any recent specimans of the 2341's but they may still be using those same longer ferruls. FWIW, Best of luck with it.Ed

[WilliamVance]

The tuba looks great! The best part is playing your creation or having your fellow section mates want to keep your horn for the rest of rehearsal... Now for a fresh silver plate someday?

[Tubajug]

Now for a fresh silver plate someday?

Actually, I like the "franken-tuba" look. Years ago, when I first got it in my head to try this kind of project, I came across this B-17 from WWII, spliced together from two planes, one silver (bare metal) and the other painted in the olive drab camo (the ground crews were the unsung heroes of the air war in WWII, but that's for another rant, those guys did miracles!). The plane's name was "Little Miss Mischief." As soon as I heard that I knew that would be a great name for a tuba! So now that I'm working on the project, I finally get to see my own "Little Miss Mischief!"

[Pat S]

Looks perfect just the way it is. Glad it plays well!

[WilliamVance]

Now for a fresh silver plate someday?

Actually, I like the "franken-tuba" look. Years ago, when I first got it in my head to try this kind of project, I came across this B-17 from WWII, spliced together from two planes, one silver (bare metal) and the other painted in the olive drab camo (the ground crews were the unsung heroes of the air war in WWII, but that's for another rant, those guys did miracles!). The plane's name was "Little Miss Mischief." As soon as I heard that I knew that would be a great name for a tuba! So now that I'm working on the project, I finally get to see my own "Little Miss Mischief!"

It's fine the way it is... Lord knows mine is ugly-turn your hands slightly green-raw brass!

[TubaZac2012]

Looks fantastic! Keep the updates coming.

[Tubajug]

I'm almost done with this! (for now...)

I manufactured a brace to connect the receiver to the bell using brass rod, and the whole leadpipe is off the bell. I noticed there's a lot of "ring" in the bell after I release a note. I've only played it in my basement, so I'll have to wait and see how it sounds in a larger space.



I got the new, longer ferrules soldered to the crook (I still need to put the brace back in between). I found that if I use a sousaphone bit, I only have to have the slide pulled out about 3/4" to play it in tune (without the bit I still need to pull a good 2" which puts the slide way beyond the bottom bow). It also makes it more comfortable to hold on my lap, so I think the bit will stay!



I was hoping to play it in the orchestra this week, but I forgot about parent-teacher conferences, so it will have to wait until next week.

Once the brace is back on the main slide that should be all for a while! I've got a Cronkhite gig bag on order for it and I'll be set!

[TheHatTuba]

Congrats, Jordan! Glad this project is turning out so well for you

[iiipopes]

I manufactured a brace to connect the receiver to the bell using brass rod, and the whole leadpipe is off the bell. I noticed there's a lot of "ring" in the bell after I release a note. I've only played it in my basement, so I'll have to wait and see how it sounds in a larger space.

The best way to damp bell ring, but not tone, is to take a length of 5/16 id plastic tubing about one inch longer than the circumference of the bell rim, slit it lengthwise, and fit it to the bell.

[Uncle Buck]

I manufactured a brace to connect the receiver to the bell using brass rod, and the whole leadpipe is off the bell. I noticed there's a lot of "ring" in the bell after I release a note. I've only played it in my basement, so I'll have to wait and see how it sounds in a larger space.

The best way to damp bell ring, but not tone, is to take a length of 5/16 id plastic tubing about one inch longer than the circumference of the bell rim, slit it lengthwise, and fit it to the bell.

Recently, Wade (I think) posted his method for slicing plastic tubing for that purpose. It was a really handy description, but I'm too lazy to search for it right now. I think it was basically a razor blade fixed into a block, with the correct amount of height, allowing the tubing to be pulled across to get a straight slit.

[ajtuba]

Jordan, I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I came across your creation while doing a little research for my current project. You've got a very cool tuba there! I'm planning to do a similar marriage of an old King 2341 valve section and a GRBIC/York model 33 BBb. I want to use more of the York body and branches and attach the king valve section. This is going to involve flipping the York from a valve-up to valve front configuration. The 2nd through 6th branches on the York are just about the same length as the same branches on the king. I'm going to run into problems with length though in much the same way you did. My York has an old high/low pitch configuration, making the leadpipe much longer than the leadpipe on the King. That coupled with the shorter bell of the York means I'm going to have to find some length. Your solutions might be helpful as my project progresses...

Anyway, very cool horn! I'd be interested to see photos of the completed horn with the longer ferruls to see what you did. Hopefully it'll help as I get closer to a finished project.

Cheers,

Andy T.

[Tubajug]

Since posting in this thread, I posted one other picture (next to my newborn boy at the time) after I had sent it off to Dan Schultz for some work. He took out the dents and added some extra tubing along with the extra ferrules (pictured below). He was able to play it in tune with the original ferrules on the MTS legs, but I later had him send me some longer ones of those as well (I must play sharp).



He added the tubing in the back, so it's not even noticeable. He got as much in there as he could, stretching it almost all the way to the top bow and the next bow on the bottom (not pictured).

Let me know if you have any other questions!