Compensating versus Non-Compensating

[roughrider]

I am now starting to play in a brass band and learning treble clef for a BBb tuba. Would a Holton/Yamaha 321 4 valve BBb tuba be considered a compensating or non-compensating tuba? I need this information so that I can choose the correct fingering chart for treble clef. Thanks to all for your anticipated help!

[roughrider]

Thank you Bloke!!

[PMeuph]

This article by David Werden explains it pretty well:

http://www.dwerden.com/eu-articles-comp.cfm" target="_blank

And, if your a visual person, this animation shows how it works:

http://www.dwerden.com/comp/aCompIntro9 ... ow_F4.html" target="_blank

[TheGoyWonder]

That should be a good tuba for brass band. The catch is does it have a good low Eb/written F? This is a fudge-factor note on a 4 valve non-compensating BBb, but brass band uses it all the time. Usually 1-2-4, unless you find a configuration where 1-3, 2-4, and 1-4 are all viable.

Also you'll probably want D/written E fingered 3rd on a Yamaha anything. Possibly also G/written A, especially if you have the common displeasure of sitting next to an oversize CC tuba with flat G's.

[iiipopes]

If the tuba is a standard 4-valve compensating tuba, as bloke says, the only fingerings that really matter are notes played 2+4, 1+4 and lower. Notes fingered with a single valve, or 1+2 and 2+3 combinations, are exactly the same. Also as pointed out above, with the links, the comp loops only kick in when 4th valve is used.

Since standard British brass band style notation is transposed treble clef, with 1st ledger line middle C as notated being played open valves, look at the repertoire to be played. Unless there are many first ledger line C#'s/bottom of treble clef Db's, or a lot of notes below notated 2 ledger lines and a space G below, then the non-comp upright valve Yammy 321 4-valve non-comp BBb tuba will do just fine, especially as it is copied from the Besson.