hybrid mouthpipe for GDR era “Perantucci” F tuba..??

[Bill B]

I have one of the Perantucci F's that has two interchangeable mouthpipes. The smaller one seems to have a minimum bore of about 12.5 mm at the small end and a bore of about 18.5 -19 mm at the large end - it is made for a standard shank mouthpiece. The larger one, seems to have a minimum bore of about 13.6 mm, it seems to work best with an euro shank mouthpiece (a standard bottoms out). The smaller one seems to give a more typical F tuba sound, I do use the larger one in brass band, where I am trying to get a sound which blends better with Eb. I seem to remember reading an interview with Peter Tucci, where he said the modern leadpipe is a modification of the larger leadpipe.

[joh_tuba]

I have three of these pipes that I've purchased from people that 'had an extra'. I'll take a look and report back what I find.

[joh_tuba]

OK...

All three are 19mm at the large end.
One is nickel with a eura receiver and a big end... 13.6 is a reasonable guess.
Another is red brass with the 13.6mm small end and american receiver.
The last one had all the parts scavenged from it so it's JUST the pipe but the small end is definitely smaller than the others and is 12.5mm.

My question: if I want to use the smaller pipe do I need to source a receiver that is designed to mate with that small end?

[joh_tuba]

Yes. Your description is correct. I will need to source a receiver that properly mates to this smaller pipe.

I have access to an assortment of draw rings, dent balls, etc if I decide to pursue that idea. My instinct says that stopping short of the destination diameter would be 'bad' but I don't have a good reason for that intuition and I've seen both good and bad playing horns with that 'feature'.

You probably know this, for a while PT-10s shipped with two detachable leadpipes.. a large and a small. It's my best guess that all three of these pipes came from that era of manufacture.

[joh_tuba]

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear.

This pipe is *not* tapered back out to receive a mouthpiece. It's not just a matter of sleeving the pipe like on an old Rudy or Alexander.

This pipe definitely had a modern B&S style receiver soldered onto the end of the pipe. Solder line clearly visible. It was removed by a previous owner.

[joh_tuba]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hlNtyP ... sp=sharing

Link to picture

[Bill B]

According to a quick measurement on mine the point to where the leadpipe goes was about 45 mm from the mouthpiece end of the receiver.

[joh_tuba]

If I recall correctly Alan Baer advocates for a .125" gap between the end of the mouthpiece and the start of the receiver.

*I've also been told similar pearls of wisdom regarding trumpet gaps by people that claim to know things.

[MackBrass]

When I added a 5th valve to my Alex, I used the B&S design from the F tuba. There is a dogleg that goes up and back from the first valve and the 5th I installed was a .750 bore. I used a leadpipe from a 210 BBb tuba which is considerably smaller at the receiver, I would say more standard sized and opens to the 750 on the side of the valve.

I have compared it with several really good Alex 163 tubas but mine has a much quicker response. Did not effect the low register at all but made everything a little better.

Here is the Alex with the new design the day after I added the 5th with new leadpipe.

Snedecor 4
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=03guqi1Tf1w" target="_blank


Kopprasch #7
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xtEm6eouMac" target="_blank

Notice one thing, I am not pulling any slides.