Ergonomics problem.
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scottw
- 5 valves

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- SplatterTone
- 5 valves

- Posts: 1906
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I tilt my horn to the left. Partly because of ergonomics and partly so I can see the music with both eyes. I can't say what the degree angle is; but the euphonium player really prefers sitting on my right.
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- prototypedenNIS
- 3 valves

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- Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Tom
- 5 valves

- Posts: 1579
- Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2004 11:01 am
What do you mean by "akward?"
Keep in mind that stands can be used
Thumb rings can be added/removed/relocated
Leadpipes can be moved
If it's trying to keep in touch with the valve slides while you play that's causing akward positioning, try the "set it and forget it" method and see if you can come up with a comfortable way to hold the tuba.
For me, ergonomic problems came into play while playing "big valve" piston tubas (MW, B&S, VMI, etc.). I swore up and down that I'd never buy one because of how horribly uncomfortable they were to play. Several years passed until I happened to play a MW that had been reworked to be among the most ergonomic tubas I've ever played. In the case of the MW I played (and purchased at a later date), angle and height adjustments were made to the leadpipe and the thumb ring and 5th valve mechanism were redone to not be so much of a stretch. Just over a year ago I got a MW CC, and although the leadpipe is fine, I subsequently had the thumb ring assembly changed out and went to using a stand.
Although this may not apply directly to you, a warning about ergonomic issues:
Carpel tunnel and arthritis are both serious problems that can be exacerbated through doing such things as playing a tuba with bad ergonomics. Playing on ill-fitting equipment isn't worth having surgery or living out the rest of your days in pain, in my opinion. A few hundred bucks work of work by a decent repair person can make all of the difference in the world and is something I would surely look into.
Keep in mind that stands can be used
Thumb rings can be added/removed/relocated
Leadpipes can be moved
If it's trying to keep in touch with the valve slides while you play that's causing akward positioning, try the "set it and forget it" method and see if you can come up with a comfortable way to hold the tuba.
For me, ergonomic problems came into play while playing "big valve" piston tubas (MW, B&S, VMI, etc.). I swore up and down that I'd never buy one because of how horribly uncomfortable they were to play. Several years passed until I happened to play a MW that had been reworked to be among the most ergonomic tubas I've ever played. In the case of the MW I played (and purchased at a later date), angle and height adjustments were made to the leadpipe and the thumb ring and 5th valve mechanism were redone to not be so much of a stretch. Just over a year ago I got a MW CC, and although the leadpipe is fine, I subsequently had the thumb ring assembly changed out and went to using a stand.
Although this may not apply directly to you, a warning about ergonomic issues:
Carpel tunnel and arthritis are both serious problems that can be exacerbated through doing such things as playing a tuba with bad ergonomics. Playing on ill-fitting equipment isn't worth having surgery or living out the rest of your days in pain, in my opinion. A few hundred bucks work of work by a decent repair person can make all of the difference in the world and is something I would surely look into.
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tubeast
- 4 valves

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- Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:59 pm
- Location: Buers, Austria
I might add that it´s always interesting to reconsider that horn position. Example: most rotary horns have their buttons aligned somewhat parallel to the bell´s axis. Horn held at a 45° angle to rest in your lap and touch your mouth with the MP, your wrist has to accomodate accordingly to reach them.
You may have to crouch somewhat to reach the MP, and that´s what most will do.
If you set the bottom bow on your left thigh towards the knee,
you can ceep a straight wrist. Plus, by adjusting the angle between thigh and shin and maybe tiptoeing that left foot (if you´re, like, 7´) height can be adjusted so you can arch forward into the horn a little for more air intake. You might want to wear cardboard or football pads in your pants in the long run, especially if that horn has ancient, blade-type bow guards.
You may have to crouch somewhat to reach the MP, and that´s what most will do.
If you set the bottom bow on your left thigh towards the knee,
you can ceep a straight wrist. Plus, by adjusting the angle between thigh and shin and maybe tiptoeing that left foot (if you´re, like, 7´) height can be adjusted so you can arch forward into the horn a little for more air intake. You might want to wear cardboard or football pads in your pants in the long run, especially if that horn has ancient, blade-type bow guards.
Hans
Melton 46 S
1903 or earlier GLIER Helicon, customized Hermuth MP
2009 WILLSON 6400 RZ5, customized GEWA 52 + Wessex "Chief"
MW HoJo 2011 FA, Wessex "Chief"
Melton 46 S
1903 or earlier GLIER Helicon, customized Hermuth MP
2009 WILLSON 6400 RZ5, customized GEWA 52 + Wessex "Chief"
MW HoJo 2011 FA, Wessex "Chief"
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tubatooter1940
- 6 valves

- Posts: 2530
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:09 pm
- Location: alabama gulf coast
I bought a tuba stand from E-bay with a tripod base that supports the tuba hands off. This enables me to pull a guitar across my lap when more guitar/vocals are needed. I find this stand somewhat flimsy and am looking into the Wenger Tuba Tamer stand that might be more substantial.
tubatooter1940
www.johnreno.com/
tubatooter1940
www.johnreno.com/
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crbarnes
- bugler

- Posts: 86
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 2:20 am
- Location: Kenmore, WA
A Possible Solution
I totaly understand your problem here. My 1291 is the same. To get past the tubing running down next to the bell, it just feels better to put the horn at an angle but then you have to support it. This prevents any slide pulling. Here's how I solved the problem:
1. I bought a tubassist http://www.tubassist.com/ as a stand. I love it and it is very portable.
2. The best idea came from a master class with Chris Olka and his students. "Sticky Pad", originally to put on your dash to keep your cell phone and accessories from slipping around. http://www.handstands.com/ I found them at Office Depot and they shoudl be at aauto parts stores. I use two of them. One on the stand itself over the pad it comes worth. and another (one of the gel types) on the horn itself on the left side. The combination makes the horn very stable. The pad just grabs on and won't let go. It is non-adhesive and will not harm the finish. I do take mine off the horn after I play and put it back on the carboard it is packed in. Anyway, this really solved the problem. The horn just feels right now and I do have enough flexibility to pull slides as needed. The pads alone are a great thing for stabilizing ANY horn against your leg. They simply stop slipping around. .
1. I bought a tubassist http://www.tubassist.com/ as a stand. I love it and it is very portable.
2. The best idea came from a master class with Chris Olka and his students. "Sticky Pad", originally to put on your dash to keep your cell phone and accessories from slipping around. http://www.handstands.com/ I found them at Office Depot and they shoudl be at aauto parts stores. I use two of them. One on the stand itself over the pad it comes worth. and another (one of the gel types) on the horn itself on the left side. The combination makes the horn very stable. The pad just grabs on and won't let go. It is non-adhesive and will not harm the finish. I do take mine off the horn after I play and put it back on the carboard it is packed in. Anyway, this really solved the problem. The horn just feels right now and I do have enough flexibility to pull slides as needed. The pads alone are a great thing for stabilizing ANY horn against your leg. They simply stop slipping around. .
What lies behind us, and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
~ Ralph Waldo Emerson ~
~ Ralph Waldo Emerson ~
- MaryAnn
- Occasionally Visiting Pipsqueak

- Posts: 3217
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Maybe I'm a wuss but I just won't buy a tuba that doesn't work ergonomically; I'm just not into either pain or injury. I also won't buy one un-playtested, no matter how good the deal and how trustworthy the seller, for the same reason. A play test is mandatory, and the first, not the last, thing I look at is ergonomics. It doesn't get past the first five notes if it doesn't fit me. We don't have anyone here in town who can do major tuba-shifting type repairs, and that means I'd have to travel with it to a repair guy who was willing to do it right when I got there and keep at it til we got it done.
Nah.
MA
Nah.
MA
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Ace
- 5 valves

- Posts: 1395
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:46 am
- Location: Berkeley, CA
I've had my new Miraphone 1291 CC for about two months now. For me, it presents no ergonomic problems. It is one of the most comfortable tubas I've ever played. Just goes to show how no two bodies are exactly alike. (I'm 6'2", 230 lbs.)
As for slide pulling, I don't have to on the 1291. Yes, there are some notes slightly out of tune, but common alternate fingerings solve the problem. It's a great horn.
As for slide pulling, I don't have to on the 1291. Yes, there are some notes slightly out of tune, but common alternate fingerings solve the problem. It's a great horn.