Lubrication

[Paul S]

I've used the Yamaha VVO Vintage Superior Valve Oil (synthetic) on both the piston and rotor valves on my PT606 since the day I bought it new (about ten years now). I typically do a thorough valve and valve casing cleaning with a carburator and piston cleaning spray (yes from the automotive dept.) once or twice a year and have not seen any gunk or residue build up. I use the Yamaha Rotor Spindle Oil and Yamaha Rotor Lever Oil as well with never a problem. I did take advantage of the Monster Oil sale this past weekend though and will see how it compares down the road.

[iiipopes]

I've used the Yamaha VVO Vintage Superior Valve Oil (synthetic) on both the piston and rotor valves on my PT606 since the day I bought it new (about ten years now). I typically do a thorough valve and valve casing cleaning with a carburator and piston cleaning spray (yes from the automotive dept.) once or twice a year and have not seen any gunk or residue build up. I use the Yamaha Rotor Spindle Oil and Yamaha Rotor Lever Oil as well with never a problem. I did take advantage of the Monster Oil sale this past weekend though and will see how it compares down the road.

Of course you won't have any buildup using carburetor cleaner. But have you any idea how toxic those volatile chemicals are? You should not use carburetor cleaner.

[balchb]

I had a great email come back from a repair shop in my area, aligning with much of what is being posted.

If Hetman products prove to be inferior with my horn/body chemistry, I will have the horn professionally cleaned and switch to traditional (petro) oils. So far valve performance has improved since the Hetman 13 came in and I'll keep this thread in mind if a transition needs to occur. The linkages definitely feel/sound better.

I'm not sold on the Super Lube grease, so that may be grounds for a change to petro... perhaps having my slides lapped for the really tight clearances will make it a little better. First slide is great, others are hard to move.

Thanks again everyone!

[Paul S]

Of course you won't have any buildup using carburetor cleaner. But have you any idea how toxic those volatile chemicals are? You should not use carburetor cleaner.

Yes I do understand, I began my undergrad work as a Chemical & Nuclear Engineering major and have a federal chemical pesticide license. I also know these chemicals are extremely effective in cleaning and maintaining my horn (my valves are stainless steel btw) and this process was recommended by several instrument repair techs whom I trust. That said, there are few effective cleaners that are not dangerous if you are stupid in how you use them. I try very hard not to be stupid. As Joe politely stated.. (bloke "Go drink some Blue Juice or Hetman's. I'm sure they're not toxic at all.") The same goes sucking in the vaporized forms of these oils in your horn as well.

I do not use the cleaner and then instantly play the horn and I am thorough with my post cleaning rinsing of any chemical residual, using a cloth wipe down, and follow up procedures such as airing out the horn and pistons. These are important steps anytime you work with any cleaners and lubricants in your horn or elsewhere and I stand corrected in not taking the time to mention these as such.

[balchb]

Of course you won't have any buildup using carburetor cleaner. But have you any idea how toxic those volatile chemicals are? You should not use carburetor cleaner.

Yes I do understand, I began my undergrad work as a Chemical & Nuclear Engineering major and have a federal chemical pesticide license. I also know these chemicals are extremely effective in cleaning and maintaining my horn (my valves are stainless steel btw) and this process was recommended by several instrument repair techs whom I trust. That said, there are few effective cleaners that are not dangerous if you are stupid in how you use them. I try very hard not to be stupid. As Joe politely stated.. (bloke "Go drink some Blue Juice or Hetman's. I'm sure they're not toxic at all.") The same goes sucking in the vaporized forms of these oils in your horn as well.

I do not use the cleaner and then instantly play the horn and I am thorough with my post cleaning rinsing of any chemical residual, using a cloth wipe down, and follow up procedures such as airing out the horn and pistons. These are important steps anytime you work with any cleaners and lubricants in your horn or elsewhere and I stand corrected in not taking the time to mention these as such.

Same can be said with a hydrochloric (muriatic) acid bath, brasso, or other harsh chemicals used in the repair shop. Flush it out, wipe it out, don't inhale directly, all's well.

[PMeuph]

...and never use gasoline as a cleaner...

...Use solvents (that are more flammable, more fuming, and cost 10X as much) that are specifically labeled as "cleaners".

Yeah, like Lighter fluid!

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ronso ... H5tZ1fF_I0" target="_blank

(At almost $15 a litre)

Compared to :
http://www.gasbuddy.com/GB_Price_List.aspx?cntry=CAN" target="_blank

[Dylan King]

I used to make my own formulas, which worked great and was super cheap. Now that I have small children, I looked for something a little less deadly...

I have switched to Ultrapure. It works great on a wide variety of instruments, and they have specialty products for rotary horns, etc. I tend to over-oil, if there's such a thing. I haven't seen any build-up after about two years of use on all my horns. A very nice product indeed.

I have also used it to oil the screen door handle on my back porch when I couldn't find the WD 40. And just last week I spilled some on a beautiful piece of Chinese furniture. The spot where I spilled is still very shiny from the oil.

I haven't used any on my car though, so I cannot say whether or not Ultrapure speeds up a minivan.

[bigbob]

With all due respect to Tom, who has substantial experience, I don't think that his warning should be taken as a general prohibition of synthetic lubricants -- and he may not have intended this. I've tried a number of them, and there are differences.

I sure as hell can. Trash. Every single synthetic lubricant I have used, especially Hetmans, turns to white frothy gunk. They should all be outlawed. Trash. Every single one of them.

But let me tell you how I really feel.

I found the same ...I bought Hetmans at the DC show ...cleaned my pistons after two weeks of using Hetmans I developed a cream colored sludge around the piston ..I went back to reg. oil and have had no build up.....BB

[ghmerrill]

I don't know what conclusions to draw from those kinds of reports. I'm inclined to think that there must be something related to body chemistry or instrument metallurgy or solvents used to clean the instrument -- or something of that sort. Or maybe bacteria or other micro-organisms taking up residence in some instruments between cleanings

I've never seen anything resembling white frothy gunk in any of my instruments, no matter what type of lubricant I've used (synthetic or otherwise). It would be interesting to see what the variables are that lead to such a widely divergent set of circumstances involving lubricants in these instruments. No masters' theses being done on this?